crown moulding corner kitchen cabinet scribe end piece

However, if the wall cabs go to ceiling, factory cabs must be held down enough to run the cab crown without interfering with the doors. If you look closely at my pic, you can see the room crown, which is a different size and pattern than the cabinet crown. But I don't follow you on the part of your question, '.built like the drawing, but with flush tops?' Flush tops? Then, 'the crown would simply break around the corner cabinet as it runs around the room.'īoth pictures show cabinets that are approximately 1 ft below ceiling height. Then the corner cabinet is wide enough for the crown on adjacent cabinets to terminate into with a square cut rather than using a return.Ĭontributor G, you might recognize that photo from my CD, which also shows the top of the cab with the blocking used to attach the crown. I believe this is part of what contributor G was asking. Build it with wider sides, say 14' to 16' deep. Of course, if you are building the cabinet, then contributor T's opinion is the best. It's then up to us installers to come up with a workable solution. Some factory cabs do have the option of deeper sides, but not many builders, or homeowners for that matter, are aware of it, or they just don't want to spend the additional money for the cabinet.

The problem with factory corner cabs is they are only 12' deep on the sides and there aren't very many options for ending crown in such a situation. I believe the cabinets in question are also factory cabinets. The cabinets in my picture are factory cabinets. Offhand, I'd say the design could have been better. Without seeing the whole design, it's hard to render an opinion (emphasis on opinion).

If I can't, and there are times when it's pretty hard to do, then I treat it as contributor P shows. I really try to build into the design what contributor T is showing. You could get away with crown on the tall cases if you like, but even if it's technically possible, I'd leave it off the lower ones. I'm just a carpenter, and no authority on design, but any attempt to put crown on the cases between the tall ones just won't look right, pure and simple. That design just doesn't work with crown on the lower tops. I have installed uppers with staggered tops as shown in your photo, usually in a contemporary look kind of mimics a big city skyline. Seems like there's a simple rule here somewhere, that's all.īack to the original issue. How can anyone design cabinets like the two in the photographs? Am I missing something here? Isn't it the same with a refer or oven cabinet? Don't they always have to be an inch or two forward of the base cabinets so the countertops will have a point of termination? I'm not trying to be glib. Just means a larger door/face frame that projects into the room a little more, right? But the corner cabinet in your drawing does that anyway. Why can't the cabinets be built exactly like your excellent drawing, but with flush tops? The crown would simply break around the corner cabinet as it runs around the ceiling. Can you use a wider corner cabinet that provides more room for crown termination? Or a deeper cabinet? What's the deal here! Isn't there a way to design these corners differently? I mean, if you do have to keep the tops flush.

I'm not a cabinet guy, but sure have gotten involved with the crown-on-corner-cabinets issue. What do you do when all uppers must go to the ceiling? The corner upper is made wider and deeper to keep a 16' door at all times. Being that it is alternating heights, you could also use alternate moldings, such as galley-rail.

Crown moulding corner kitchen cabinet scribe end piece